Eastern Canada road trip - Baie Comeau to Labrador City

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A little over a week into our trip, our brother and two friends from Finland joined us in Baie Comeau for the drive through northern Quebec, Labrador and Newfoundland. 

Baie Comeau, Quebec

Power generation is an important industry in this part of Canada. Power lines crisscross northern Quebec and Labrador carrying electricity from the wilderness to the cities. Numerous dams harness the power of water to generate electricity. Electrical substations fizz, hiss and crackle - you can almost see the sparks - as they transform the voltage level and subsequently distribute and transmit the energy onward.

Manic 2 - Jean-Lesage Generating Station - Baie Comeau, Quebec

Daniel-Johnson Dam and Manic 5

Manic 5 is a generating station located some 200km north of the Jean-Lesage Generating Station (Manic 2) in Baie Comeau. Both stations are part of the Manicouagan-Outardes project along the Manicouagan water system, although Manic 2 is also fed by the Toulnustouc river.

The Daniel-Johnson Dam at Manic 5 is an impressive sight. The amount of concrete used to build the dam would build a sidewalk from the North Pole to the South Pole.

Manic 5

Manicouagan Reservoir and Crater

Some 75km further north we began to catch glimpses of the Manicouagan Reservoir. Flying over the area some years before, my seatmate, a geologist, had pointed out the eye-shaped phenomenon and explained that it had been created more than 200 million years earlier when a five kilometre wide asteroid hit the earth and created an enormous crater. The shape and scale can only be appreciated from the air. The next time you fly over the area, look for the 'eye of Quebec'.

Manicouagan crater 1962, prior to the construction of the Daniel-Johnson Dam. There is significantly less water and the eye-shape less discernible.
http://ottawa-rasc.ca/wiki/index.php?title=Odale-Articles-Manicouagan

Manicouagan crater, the 'Eye of Quebec' - a view from orbit.  Manic 5 is located along the bottom right of the image, approximately where the longest water tail peters out Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=372811

Manicouagan crater, the 'Eye of Quebec' - a view from orbit.  Manic 5 is located along the bottom right of the image, approximately where the longest water tail peters out
Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=372811

The reservoir was created by the damming up of the Manicouagan river after the construction of the Daniel-Johnson Dam, resulting in much higher water levels and a more discernible eye shape.

Standing on the edges of the reservoir, its beauty was greater still. The water shimmered a bright blue and the forests that surrounded it were vast. It was a true wilderness.

The majority of the roads were dirt covered with a few wonderful stretches of pavement. The dirt roads were in good shape, especially given the remoteness of the area, and made for an interesting drive.  The scenery comprised mostly of trees, road and sky with an occasional body of water and bridge. No traffic jams, although we did have to stop for construction a few times. Only in Canada is there construction in the middle of the wilderness.  The only people we saw were truckers and construction workers. 

A much appreciated road sign

The worst road sign ever

We crossed a few interesting bridges

Labrador City, Labrador

After a long day of driving (approximately 600km) we arrived in Labrador City, home of one of Canada’s largest iron-ore mines, which could be seen long before we arrived in the town.

The night was spent at a campground on the edge of town. The sky was clear and the northern lights put on quite a show. A clear sky also meant a cold night - well below freezing - and we all woke up in the morning covered in frost and ice.

Did you miss the first few posts about our trip? Read part one and part two.

The New House - Laying the foundation

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The foundations of the house and garage have been laid! It's so exciting when a new house begins to take shape.

Photo credit for these images goes to my father Gary and sister Lillian - I missed out on this stage of the build. Enjoy!

Main Street Fair

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Be sure to stop by the Markstay Main Street Fair this weekend. The community comes together to put on a great event - numerous vendors selling goods, a community garage sale, performers, children's activities and the annual lucky duck race. The fire department is always a great hit, as well.

For more info, check out their Facebook page. Below are some images from previous years.

Eastern Canada road trip - Tadoussac to Mingan

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In Tadoussac, we visited the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine park, one of three National Marine Conservation Areas in Canada. As mentioned in a previous post, two great rivers meet and stir up the nutrient rich waters, attracting a variety of marine life, including whales. We purchased a Parks Canada pass - our best investment of the whole trip. In 2017 all Parks Canada sites will be open to the public free of charge to celebrate Canada's 150th birthday - start planning!!

We spent a few days in the area - whale watching, visiting the different sites of the marine park, relaxing at a campsite with impressive views and sunsets and exploring the Louis Gravel covered bridge.

Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park

Cap de Bon-Désir Interpretation and Observation Centre

Louis Gravel Covered Bridge

Saguenay fjords at L'Anse-de-Roche

We had planned to drive a loop around the Saguenay river and Lac Saint-Jean - the fjords were said to be spectacular - but Hurricane Irene had wiped out the road in several places. Luckily, we caught a brief glimpse of the towering giants at L'Anse-de-Roche.

As we got closer to the Mingan archipelago, the distance between villages became greater. The landscape changed -  untouched by development. The number of English speakers dropped to zero.

A lobster fisherman from New Brunswick came for a visit when he noticed our Ontario plates. Weathered and darkly tanned, he was a born storyteller.  He regaled us with tales of local traditions and about the woman he had fallen in love with and followed to the Mingan area some twenty years previous. Prior to his arrival, he told us, there was no electricity in their small village. Local fisherman, who needed to store their catch in a cold place in the summer months, would navigate their fishing vessels to a nearby small island with hills that were snow covered year round, fill their boats with snow, haul it back to the mainland and shovel it into well insulated storage sheds - their version of a freezer.

The system worked well, he explained, until the year he showed up those many years ago. His first summer in rural Quebec was also the last summer that the snow remained year round. Now, when spring arrives, the snows melt as the birds return north for the summer.

Although there are now roads to this region of the country and electricity in every house along the St. Lawrence, I can't help but wonder about the great adjustment these small villages must have experienced as their way of life changed and how they coped in the years after the weather warmed and before the modern world intruded.

The St. Lawrence river widened as we continued along the north shore until we could no longer see land on the other side. The rise and fall of the tides became more evident. Incredible. In 1858, Charles Mackay, editor of the Illustrated London News wrote, "Familiarity with [the St. Lawrence river] breeds no contempt. On the contrary, the more it is known, the more it is admired. Without exaggeration, it may be called the chief and prince of all the rivers in the world."

Spring on Manitoulin

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Arriving on Manitoulin island is like entering a different world - a place untouched by time.  It's peaceful and the roads are free of traffic. Ancient farms and old settlements dot the landscape. The views are incredible and wildlife is abundant - a hunter and fisherman's paradise. Blue lake and rocky shore aptly describes the shorelines of the island, which lies between Georgian Bay and Lake Huron. 

A weekend trip to Manitoulin is a great place to escape to for a few days, especially if you enjoy lazy Sunday style drives, eating in small local restaurants and relaxing evenings at quaint B and B's.

Ten Mile Point, Manitoulin Island

Ten Mile Point, Manitoulin

Bridal Veil Falls - Kagawong, Manitoulin Island

Eastern Canada road trip - Toronto to Tadoussac

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The morning of our departure on our great Canadian adventure dawned sunny and warm.  After a devastating hurricane had delayed the trip several times, we were so excited to finally pack up the car and head out. Three girls on an adventure. Destination unknown. Our only plan - drive around the east coast of Canada. We had no deadline, no reason to rush anywhere.

Our first stop was Canadian Tire - we still needed a few last minute items. Then, 400 south to the 401 - the highway of heros - and east. At some point we pulled off the highway and headed north through Ontario farm country, crossing into Quebec in Hawksebury/Grenville.

The bridge between Ontario and Quebec in Hawkesbury/Grenville (photo credit: Brianna)

Carillon Canal Locks National Historic Site

After crossing into Quebec we drove along the north shore of the Ottawa river, where there are some spectacular old French homes. We stopped for a break at the Carillon Canal Locks National Historic Site, which encompasses the canal locks, a hydroelectric dam and a museum in former barracks. Our newly purchased camera chose this location to break down - on our first day!

Oka National Park

Our first night was spent at Oka National Park, the site of the well-known conflict in 1990 between the Mohawk, who wanted to reclaim local burial grounds and a pine grove that was sacred to their people, and the town of Oka, which wanted to build a golf course and condos on the same land. The Oka crisis brought national attention to native issues and aided in the development of Canada's First Nations Policing Policy.

We had a great site near the beach, where we were lucky enough to be visited by foxes, raccoons and skunks.

Pointe-du-Moulin Historic Park

While our camera was in for repairs at a shop in Montreal, we spent the day at Pointe-du-Moulin Historic Park in Notre-Dame-de-l'Île-Perrot, an island on the outskirts of the city.

After picking up the camera, we continued our trip along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River past Quebec City and through the rolling hills along the Route des Baleines (Whale Route) towards Camping Falaise-sur-Mer, our home for the next night.

Our campsite was high above the river. The bugs were ferocious but the views were incredible. The shadows lengthened and the sky turned cotton candy pink and purple. Our dreams were accompanied by the sound of whales talking to one another.

A pretty swell campsite

Baie-Sainte-Catherine and Tadoussac

The Saguenay river, which flows between Baie-Sainte-Catherine and Tadoussac, can only be crossed by ferry.  In 1850, the New York Tribune wrote about the Saguenay river, saying it is "the most astonishing river on the globe - stealing along the eternal solitude of its fathomless gulf, between banks that tower far above the clouds."

The crossing is short but memorable. The river flows over a fjord that was formed during the last Ice Age when a crack was carved out by a receding glacier. Steep tree-covered cliffs hug the river and the water sparkles. The nutrient rich waters attracts whales and whale watchers alike.

On the other side of the river lies Tadoussac, Canada's first fur-trading post dating back to 1600.

Sunset at Wasaga Beach

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Wasaga Beach features prominently in my memories of childhood - sweltering, humid summer days spent swimming from sand bar to sand bar, splashing in waves, burying ourselves in warm sand, running, screaming, laughing.  Siblings, cousins, friends - large groups enjoying life. Charcoal and barbecue. Sunscreen. Hot sand. Cool water. Walks down the boardwalk. Ice cream in town. Crowds. Music. Sunshine.

A visit in April is different than one on a scorcher of a July day but wonderful, nevertheless.  A walk along fourteen kilometres of sand, the largest freshwater beach in the world, empty but for a handful of people. Bare feet in sand and water for the first time this year. A few intrepid boys in summer clothes frolicking in the water. Frisbee. Baseball with a log and stone. And to top it all off - a sunset to rival all sunsets.