Trinity, Newfoundland

Trinity, Newfoundland is a dream of a village. Set on the water, its many historical buildings are colourful and charming. Window sills hold books and glass jars. Lace curtains flutter in the sea breeze. One of its churches was built by sailors in the form of an upside down boat. At least, that’s what one of the locals told us. Cheerful road signs and a friendly cat - what more could you ask for?

St. Paul’s Anglican Church

The church, built by sailors, was modeled on the hull of a ship, albeit upside down.

Church of the Most Holy Trinity

Atlantic Charter Monument, Newfoundland

On August 9, 1941, two large ships sailed into Placentia Bay off the coast of Newfoundland, each carrying one of the most influential men of the period. A top secret meeting had been arranged in this remote part of Canada in the early days of World War II. Aboard the British battleship, the HMS Prince of Wales, was Winston Churchill, Prime Minister of Great Britain, while the American ship, the USS Augusta, carried American President Franklin D. Roosevelt, whom the world believed to be on an extended fishing trip.

The USA had not even entered the war yet (they would do so some months later after the bombing of Pearl Harbor) but the aim of this meeting was to develop a statement with the stated goals of America and Britain for the rest of the world after the end of World War II. At the time, they could have no idea that the war would continue for almost 4 more years, spread across the globe and cause unfathomable devastation and loss of life.

The final statement, later known as the ‘Atlantic Charter’, contained eight clauses and was issued on August 14, 1941. The Atlantic Charter is often seen as the inspiration of later international agreements, including the formation of NATO and the GATT.

A monument stands on the shore near the site of the meeting place of the two ships. It’s quiet and remote here. A suitable place for a clandestine meeting.

Franklin D. Roosevelt and Winston Churchill aboard HMS Prince of Wales in 1941 - By US Navy - U.S. Naval Historical Center Photograph #: NH 67209 : http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/sh-fornv/uk/uksh-p/pow12.htmDonation of Vice Admiral Harry Sanders, USN (Retired), 1969., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=395751

Castle Hill National Historic Site, Newfoundland

There’s something haunting about visiting a place that holds echoes of the past. As we walked from the Visitor Centre to the hilltop overlooking the bay and town of Placentia (Plaisance), our steps landed on the same path as first the French and then the English soldiers who lived, fought and died here. What passed through their minds as they ran along this narrow trail to man the guns against the enemy? Did the sun sparkle through the trees as it did when we visited? Was it night time and raining? Or was winter hard on them and the snow deep and cold? It’s hard in our modern day to imagine the boom of cannons and the sounds of muskets firing but there was a time when this small fort played an important role in the history of our country.

Castle Hill National Historic Site is situated high above the town of Placentia/Plaisance in Newfoundland. The remnants of the old fort can be seen in the stone walls and the history of the region is brought alive at the Visitor Centre, which provides audio tours and visual exhibits. The French were here first (1662) because of the abundant fisheries while the fort was also a strategic location from which to protect French Canada from attack by the British. In 1713, the French army relocated to Louisbourg, Nova Scotia, and it wasn’t long before the British moved in. They stayed until 1811.

Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve, Newfoundland

As North America’s most accessible seabird colony, Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve in Newfoundland is a bird-watcher’s paradise. And if you love dramatic landscapes, you won’t be disappointed. It’s flat, until it’s not. The dizzying heights are not for the faint of heart. Northern gannets fill the skies and crowd on Bird Rock, jabbering away with one another. Just don’t mind the bird droppings!

Cape Spear and Brigus, Newfoundland

A trip to Newfoundland isn’t complete without a visit to Canada’s most easterly point - Cape Spear, home to Newfoundland’s oldest surviving lighthouse. It was misty and moody on the day we visited - no hope of seeing across the ocean to Ireland. And the drizzle/rain was intense, we were soaked through in minutes, absolutely sopping wet even beneath our rain coats.

The mists had settled into the surrounding areas, giving the small fishing villages a ghostly atmosphere. As we traveled west, the sun appeared through the clouds and we stopped briefly to view the memorial to Captain and Arctic explorer Robert Abram Bartlett in the town of Brigus.

St. John's, Newfoundland

St. John’s, Newfoundland is a vibrant, charming city, rich in history and bursting with colour. From the harbour to Jellybean Row, Signal Hill to George Street and all areas in between, St. John’s is fun, full of character and flat-out fantastic!

The Port of St. John’s

Signal Hill

Gander and Terra Nova, Newfoundland

On our way from viewing icebergs in Twillingate to visiting the colourful houses of St. John’s, we stopped for a day in Gander to visit the Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery, the site of the Arrow Air disaster with its Silent Witness Memorial, and the North Atlantic Aviation Museum and its 9/11 exhibit. We finished the day with a drive through Terra Nova National Park.

Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery

The Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery is the final resting place of 6,395 souls who gave their lives in Canada during World War II. Many died in airplane crashes in the Gander region.

Arrow Air Disaster and the Silent Witness Memorial

On December 12, 1985, Arrow Air Flight 1285, which was transporting American troops from Cairo, Egypt to Kentucky, USA, via Gander, stalled and crashed shortly after takeoff killing all 256 people on board. This is the deadliest aviation accident to occur in Canada.

An American soldier holds the hands of two children at the Silent Witness Memorial, keeping watch over the crash site. Visitors have left pennies scattered over the sculptures in remembrance.

North Atlantic Aviation Museum

The North Atlantic Aviation Museum taught us about the construction of Gander International airport and the role it played in international travel, both for civilians crossing the ocean in the early days of commercial airline travel and for the military during World War II. There was also a great exhibit about the people of Gander and the role they played in welcoming and housing 6700 travelers during the days after 9/11 when American airspace was closed and flights were rerouted to Gander.

Terra Nova National Park

Terra Nova National Park is Canada’s most easterly national park. We didn’t have much time to spend in the park but the views we enjoyed from the side of the road were spectacular. We hope to return someday to further explore its forests, inlets and bogs.